Heating Season Home Prep: Furnace & Draft-Seal Checklist
Introduction Winter’s on the doorstep, and your furnace is about to become the MVP of the house. A quick, systematic tune-up now can prevent breakdowns, improve comfort, and help control energy costs all season. Use this homeowner-friendly checklist to inspect your furnace, fix common drafts, and make sure your home is sealed up before the first cold snap.
Quick Pre‑Winter Checklist (Cliff Notes)
- Replace/inspect furnace filter (MERV 8–13, correct size, arrow toward blower)
- Test furnace start-up and thermostat (heat mode, schedule set)
- Vacuum return grilles and supply vents; clear furniture from vents
- Inspect burner flame (steady, mostly blue) and listen for unusual noises
- Check and seal window/door drafts (weatherstripping + caulk)
- Verify carbon monoxide (CO) and smoke detectors work; add fresh batteries
- Clear exhaust/intake vents outside; check flue/chimney for obstructions
- Seal big leaks: attic hatch, rim joists, and around pipes/wires
- Schedule a professional tune‑up if you notice red flags or it’s been 12+ months
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Step 1: Safe DIY Furnace Inspection (15–30 minutes) Safety first: If you smell gas or see soot buildup, stop and contact a pro immediately.
- Power and gas: Switch the furnace power off at the service switch or breaker. For gas units, confirm the gas shutoff valve location.
- Panels and dust: Remove the access panel. Gently vacuum dust from accessible areas using a brush attachment—avoid disturbing wires. Wipe sensors and surfaces lightly with a dry cloth.
- Burner flame: Restore power briefly to observe ignition. A healthy flame is steady and mostly blue. Yellow/orange tips can indicate dirty burners or ventilation issues—time for a pro.
- Ignition type:
- Hot surface igniter: Inspect for cracks. If brittle or chalky, plan a replacement.
- Flame sensor: Lightly buff with a fine Scotch-Brite pad if sooty; reinstall.
- Blower and belt: Look for wobble or excessive dust. If there’s a belt, check for cracks and 1/2–3/4″ deflection.
- Condensate (high-efficiency units): Make sure the drain line isn’t kinked; flush with a 50/50 warm water and vinegar mix. Confirm the trap has water.
- Vents and returns: Vacuum registers and returns. Make sure furniture/rugs aren’t blocking airflow.
- Outside terminations: For high-efficiency furnaces, check that the PVC intake/exhaust outside are clear of leaves, nests, and snow.
- Close up and test: Reinstall panels (many furnaces won’t run with the panel switch open). Turn heat on, listen for smooth start-up and normal cycling.
Step 2: Replace or Upgrade Your Furnace Filter Clean filters protect your equipment and improve airflow.
- Find the size: Check the existing filter frame (e.g., 16x25x1). If in doubt, measure the slot opening.
- MERV rating guide:
- MERV 8: Good everyday balance of airflow and filtration
- MERV 11: Better for homes with pets/allergies
- MERV 13: Finer filtration; only if your system can handle the resistance
- Frequency: 1-inch filters every 1–2 months; 4–5 inch media filters every 3–6 months. Check monthly during peak use.
- Installation: Arrow on the filter points toward the blower motor (direction of airflow). Seat it snugly; avoid gaps that let air bypass.
Step 3: Thermostat, Airflow, and Comfort Settings A few small adjustments can make a noticeable difference.
- Programmed schedules: Set wake/leave/return/sleep heating targets. Many families like 68–70°F when home and 62–66°F when sleeping—adjust to comfort.
- Heat pump tip: If you have a heat pump, use moderate setbacks to prevent unnecessary auxiliary heat.
- Fan setting: Use “Auto” for most systems; “On” can help mix air but may feel cool.
- Air balancing: Slightly close overheated room registers and open cooler rooms to even things out. Never close more than 20% of total vents.
Step 4: Hunt Down Window & Door Drafts (and Fix Them) Drafts are sneaky—and fixable with inexpensive materials.
- DIY draft tests:
- Incense/smoke pencil: On a windy day, hold near window/door edges; smoke that flickers or pulls indicates a leak.
- Paper test (doors): Close a door on a strip of paper; if it slides out easily, weatherstripping is worn.
- Daylight test: If you can see light around a closed door, air is getting through.
- Weatherstripping options (use by location):
- Door sweeps: Along the bottom of exterior doors; choose adjustable aluminum with rubber fin for durability.
- V-strip (tension seal): Great for the sides/top of doors and double-hung windows.
- Adhesive foam tape: Quick fix for irregular gaps; compresses to seal.
- Silicone bulb gasket: Long‑lasting seal for door jambs.
- Magnetic strips: Excellent on steel doors for an airtight closure.
- Caulking tips (windows/trim):
- Where to caulk: Along interior trim edges, exterior siding-to-window/door frames, and around penetrations (cables, pipes). Avoid weep holes.
- Choose the right caulk: Paintable acrylic latex for interior; elastomeric or siliconized for exterior flexibility. Use foam backer rod for gaps >1/4″.
- Prep matters: Clean, dry surfaces; remove loose, old caulk. Apply in a steady bead, then tool smooth with a damp finger or caulk tool. Allow proper cure before painting.
Step 5: Seal the Big Energy Leaks (High-Impact Spots) These areas often deliver the best comfort-to-effort payoff.
- Attic hatch/door: Install weatherstripping and an insulated cover box.
- Rim joists in the basement: Seal gaps with foam board + spray foam at edges.
- Recessed lights: If not IC-rated, avoid covering with insulation; add airtight trims.
- Electrical outlets on exterior walls: Add foam gaskets under cover plates.
- Duct sealing: Use mastic or foil-backed tape on visible leaks (not cloth “duct tape”).
- Dryer vent: Ensure the exterior flap closes fully and lint is cleared.
Step 6: Safety Check (Don’t Skip This One) A safe home is a cozy home.
- CO and smoke alarms: Test monthly; replace batteries now. Place CO detectors outside sleeping areas and on each floor.
- Chimney/flue: If you have a chimney, schedule an inspection—especially if you see white residue, rust streaks, or smell exhaust.
- Space heaters: Keep 3 feet of clearance; plug directly into the wall (no power strips). Turn off when leaving the room.
Optional: What a Professional Tune-Up Typically Includes If it’s been more than a year or you spotted red flags, a licensed HVAC pro can:
- Measure combustion and adjust burners; clean heat exchanger surfaces
- Test safeties (limit switches, pressure switches)
- Verify gas pressure, temperature rise, and static pressure
- Inspect inducer motor, blower motor amperage, capacitors
- Clean/clear condensate systems and verify flue draft
- Provide written findings and recommendations
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How often should I change my furnace filter in winter? A: Check monthly and change when dirty. Many homes with 1-inch filters end up changing every 4–8 weeks during peak heating.
Q: What’s better for drafts—caulk or weatherstripping? A: Caulk seals stationary gaps (trim to wall). Weatherstripping seals moving gaps (door/window closures). Most homes benefit from both.
Q: What temperature should I set my thermostat in winter? A: Start with 68–70°F when home and awake, then adjust to comfort. Lower setpoints while you sleep or are away can help control energy costs.
Q: When should I consider replacing my furnace? A: If it’s 15–20 years old, needs frequent repairs, or has a cracked heat exchanger or obsolete parts. A pro inspection can help you decide.
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